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#Developing c 41 iso
#Developing c 41 free

This article is originally from the Lomography magazine. 2 stop push, extend the developing time to 5 minutes 25 seconds. This can be done in regular b/w chemicals too if you prefer. If you are going to develop with coffee consider overexposing by one to two stops depending on your lighting conditions because the coffee developer will pull (underexpose) your shots, which I had to figure out the hard way. Note: You can adjust amounts to 8tsp coffee, 2 tsp washing soda, 8 oz water.

#Developing c 41 free

Hang dry in a dust free area then get your scan on.

Note: This helps it dry quicker with less streaks.

12 ounces water add half cap rubbing alcohol and rinse before hanging.

Recycle fixer back then rinse again under faucet a bit.

Fix for ten minutes with 12 ounces fixer agitating three times per minute and tapping it.

Rinse three times with 12 ounces water (equates to agitate five to six times each). A convenient, all-inclusive kit for processing color negative film, the C-41 Press Kit from Tetenal contains enough powder-based chemicals to mix 1L of working solution of developer, bleach/fix, and stabilizer.

Give it a good tap on the table or floor after each agitation to loosen air bubbles. Agitate contantly first minute then slowly three times every remaining minute. Note: Aim for 20 degrees C or 68 degrees F and try to keep it constant.

Dissolve in 12 ounces water and let stand five to ten minutes to clear bubbles.

1 crushed up chewable vitamin C (1/4 teaspoon powdered vitamin C even better) Note: Not sure exactly if this does anything, but powdered is supposed to cut down on dev.

3 teaspoons washing soda (I use Arm & Hammer).

6 teaspoons instant coffee (I use Nescafe) Note: Ground Coffee will not work! C-41, E-6, and RA-4 kits are available and include all the chemicals youll need for that specific developing process.

#Developing c 41 iso

I would also recommend using a 100 to 200 iso film because these processing times relate to that and change for higher iso. I would highly recommend using cheap film at first if you haven’t developed with coffee yet, but if you decide to use standard black and white processing chemicals then just go for it.

Another cool thing about doing this is that you can also scan the negatives as black and white and get great results. I heard you can get various color shifts depending on the film type used, based on film layer chemistry, but this is my experience thus far with Kodak Gold 100 and Longs Advantage 200 both expired. It will give you characteristics similar to a cyanotype print. This is a really cool method I have been experimenting with. It is possible to develop film with coffee, here is a good tip! Writer and photography / Lomography tipster